First was Mto Wa Mbu (aka Mosquito River –though it has nothing on Blue River in BC as far as mosquitoes are concerned). They run a cultural tourism program. Actually as far as programs are concerned this one was for me perhaps the most valuable in that they received money and training from the Netherlands I think, but now are pretty self-sufficient and run it on their own. The money they make from giving tours of their village is funneled into the community. At the end of the year when they have a sum total the village meets and they decide how they would like to use the money. They seem to be quite successful. They showed me their spreadsheets which are handwritten posters posted on the walls of their office.
In this village I specifically saw how they worked in their rice fields, a group of carvers teaching the younger how to carve, the back roads of the village, a kindergarten class who sang for me (well singing is an overstatement…the teacher just said ok sing and they screamed some songs). I then taught them how to “sing” Head and Shoulders. I also got a tour of the local bar and how they make banana beer. It’s pretty disgusting especially if you’re drinking out of the same plastic cup and the guide goes first, blowing on the top of it to move the scummy residue on the top. I also met the village drunk who was pretty funny trying out his English. Neither of us understood most of what he was saying. When we left I gave him my hand to shake. He spit in his before he shook mine. It was so gross. Apparently that’s a sign of respect too. But I suppose you could use that line for almost anything and we silly muzungus wouldn’t necessarily know. At the carvers workshop they of course showed me all their ware. I asked many questions, especially too about the use of ebony. Everyone has different stories about that. Naturally they wanted me to buy but I who has to keep down on my luggage that I’m carrying around couldn’t buy any of their beautiful statues, bowl, serving spoons etc. I did buy two little necklaces. They had just finished telling me that they sell their wares wholesale. And I asked how much the necklaces were, “10 $ each” “What?” I exclaimed, “But they’re selling them two for 5 on the street.” That was true. Chloe had bought 2 the other day and I was offered the same deal several times also. Okay, two for 5, the guy immediately agreed upon without any argument. Obviously there was still some profit in that. They usually like to argue about the prices a lot. I was getting the hang of bargaining and having fun with it too.
Lushoto in the Usambara Mountains was a beautiful forest and village walk. We walked through some cool, simple little villages where the children all shouted “Jambo, Jambo!” as I walked by. A couple of little kids seemed to be startled by me, running behind their older siblings or into the house but still always peeking out to say “Jambo!” It’s very cute and it made me feel much like a celebrity at times. Sometimes that became tedious. I can’t imagine having to be famous all the time. The landscape in the Usambara Mountains is beautiful and lush. The farms look very well used.
We hiked up to the top of certain peaks and looked into the valley below. The main attraction on this walk was the Irente Centre. It’s huge and funded by the Lutheran Church in Germany. They have centres/schools for the blind, the handicapped…and I can’t remember the other. There’s a hotel and a farm. At the farm they make their own Tilsiter cheese and quark and juice, jam and rye bread. We had lunch there. It was very German style with Brettchen (little boards to make your sandwiches on) and all of the above plus tomatoes and cucumbers. The quark was especially good on the rye bread. All of these products are made for the tourists to buy. The locals are not interested in them plus they are far too expensively priced for locals. I bought some passion fruit concentrate as a mitbringsel for Lisa. We ended the hike in the town where it was market day and I bought a kanga. We also had a beer at the local pub where we waited out the sudden thunderstorm that had come along.
Marangu is on the foothills of Kilimanjaro, the highest mountain in Africa. It’s peak is covered in snow which is bizarre when you’re boiling hot down below. Many treks up the mountain start in Marangu and the village sure was full of guides looking for people to take up. It’s a five day hike and difficult. Not everyone makes it. Altitude sickness is usually the biggest problem. Anyway, Marangu’s feature is the Village Education Project started by a teacher from the UK. It is run from the top by a group of people from the UK still. Judy Dench is their patron. The people at the school had no idea who she was. I met with the manager and the principal of the vocational school where they teach carpentry, masonry, cloth-making, sewing, arts and crafts to senior students. Also included in the curriculum are simple math skills, English and entrepreneurial skills so that they can run their own business. It being a school I asked many questions which they seemed quite happy about.
The primary school next door was quite different from the one that I volunteered at in Uganda. There’s obviously money coming into this one. They also have a computer centre as part of this project and a teacher resource centre with a resource person who provided workshops, manipulatives and supplies to teachers of a fairly large area it seemed.
I enjoyed these days of walking. The only problem I came across is that it seems my hiking boots may have died, the great hand-me-downs from Debbie. I never had any problems with them until now. They give me horrid blisters on my toes. I may have to buy a new pair here now in Australia before going on the next camping adventure. I guess I’d have to do that today. Hmmm.
No comments:
Post a Comment